2011 - The Beginning

By Luke Tilley

After a heavy dose of Christmas cheer and man flu January loomed ahead of me with the promise of shody weather, A level physics and University applications. Fortunately a meeting with Tom Randall my coach gave me some future targets to work towards. I came away inspired to up the game this year and push my phsical boundaries to reach the next level.

Week 3 into the plan and I have started working strength; weight training, fingerboarding and bouldering. Alongside upping the volume I have started doing 24 route endurance sessions and hour circuits.

Now I am back into the flow of training and school work the psyche levels are building! Alarm bells are gently tolling as the volume increases and the line between maximum improvement and injury starts to draw close. I am taking extra care with stretching, resting and antagonistic work trying to listen out for the tell tail signs of overuse injury.

Everything seems to be on track at the moment, I competed in the Works Winter Boulder comp on the 10th coming second to Ned Feehally which I was psyched about, flashing all the ones I could do in about an hour and then spent 3 hours trying the other 4-5 problems and not getting anywhere on them.

Competing at the Climbing Works ph. Dominic Worrall and training!

Last weekend I was down in London for the BBCs with the whole family. I always look forward to this comp as it is one of the only boulder comps at that level and size I get to compete in each year. It always has a relaxed vibe and you just get to spend several hours working 10 wicked problems with the added excitement of decent sized crowd. This was my second year in seniors and I was pleased to come 15th, one place better than last year and better than some really strong guys. My sisters climbed well on Sunday, Naomi (14) coming 9th and Florence (13) 15th.

I am looking forward to a trip booked to Font in February. Dan is taking the super strong super psyched Nottingham team for a weeks crushing. Can’t wait! Dan recently had new team shirts printed with a design I drew up on the last Font trip. The team is looking very pro.

It feels like 2011 has been kick started, I can’t believe there has only been 20 days since a hazy New Years Eve celebration where I vowed to up the game.

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