Cairngorm Lonelies

By Pete Rhodes

Cairngorm lonelies beckon, where solitude becomes a companion on the journey.

Before xmas I walked in to Corie an t’Sneachda to try and rope solo a route. It was raining and whiteout then and by the time I got to the base of The Message my head was elsewhere and I was fried. Cairngorm 1 – Pete 0.

Flash forward to Sunday just gone and I was an aching heap of flu curled in bed for most of the day with the couch as progress for a few hours. Sucky. Agressive Virus 1 – Pete 0.

However fresher on Monday and a good forecast for Tuesday meant that I was on my way to Aviemore at 7am on Tues morning. After a leisurely boot lacing and loo stop I walked out the car park just after 10. White out again but the headphones were blaring and confidence was a little higher. Back at the base of The Message, a route chosen for its lower grading and notoriously good gear, there was no reason not to tie in and find out. The whiteout in the corie making it all feel jolly lonely but generally calm.


Looking up at Pitch 1


My Winter belayer


Looking down from the crux


On the Crux!

No move by move here, I’m sleepy. The first pitch is easy. The belays for soloing are mediocre at best. The second pitch is non-stop fun with good gear where it matters and great holds on a surprisingly steep crux. The final snow ramp as the clouds cleared was fantastic. Abseiling back down it on a buried axe was less fantastic but required.

Hard to write down quite how much I enjoyed the time on the route. It got heady for a couple of brief sections but thats why we play right. As to why I wanted to sign off mildly arrogantly but with the cover of someones else’s words. When Scott Backes was asked ‘why?’ in his younger years he simply said ‘because others can’t.’ Unjustifiable perhaps, but concise.

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37 degrees and 53 problems

37 degrees and 53 problems

“53 problems?! You have got to be kidding me! I don’t usually move at 37 degrees let alone climb!” So, there we were in sunny Ailfroide for Tout a ...
August 01, 2007
Beth in Beijing

Beth in Beijing

If you hear a group of climbers discussing Great Wall, you assume they will be talking about that classic rock climb on Cloggy scene of many an epi...
September 08, 2005
A Monks Life

A Monks Life

To support our small article on the British Youth Climbing Team we invited Alan and Beth Monks to tell us what life in the team is like for a fathe...
November 28, 2005

Climbing With The Pivot Academy

Climbing can be a great escape. Heading down to the local wall with a group of friends, followed by a swift pint at the pub is a regular occurance ...
June 08, 2018
Waiting to climb in Yosemite

Waiting to climb in Yosemite

The weather is pretty tasty in Yosemite National Park right now, there is no way I am going to start complaining about clear blue skies and tempera...
September 10, 2008
Alpkit team at the Ice Climbing World Cup

Alpkit team at the Ice Climbing World Cup

Ice climbing competitions are a funny thing, a whole lot of people get together to test against each other, but they all do it for different reason...
January 27, 2011
Cairngorm Lonelies

Cairngorm Lonelies

Before xmas I walked in to Corie an t’Sneachda to try and rope solo a route. It was raining and whiteout then and by the time I got to the base of ...
January 14, 2011

Developing through climbing

Getting through school and developing the skills needed to succeed and develop life skills can be hard enough as it is, but with special needs it c...
July 12, 2019

BMC Youth Squad and National Schools Climbing Comp

Alpkit Foundation support ensured young GB climbers could fulfull their dreams of performing on the worlds stage. - Zoe Spriggins, BMC Competitions...
October 11, 2019
Alps Massif Ice climbing trip

Alps Massif Ice climbing trip

Well this was to be one of the most action packed weekend I’ve had without falling off or injuring myself. Despite having a 20 hour drive at the st...
February 06, 2009
Albarracin bouldering and ash clouds

Albarracin bouldering and ash clouds

Albarracin is situated in Spain between Valencia and Zaragoza and offers an excellent bouldering venue. Grades are definitely holiday grades so a g...
May 14, 2010
First Impression in Kandersteg

First Impression in Kandersteg

It’s proving a slow start with the climbing here at Kandersteg. To start with the conditions are not brilliant, but there’s stuff about to do. When...
January 28, 2011
Ice ice baby

Ice ice baby

Well the annual Ice fest was on in L’Argentière la Bessée in the Ecrin. After last year’s antics I was keen to attempt to get down a ski slope main...
March 22, 2008
Fontainebleau Dispatch

Fontainebleau Dispatch

We arrived at the gîte at three in the morning. The door was unlocked but Ken thought it best that we spent at least one night dirtbag style. Drivi...
February 28, 2010
Fingers against Pessimism

Fingers against Pessimism

Last sunday was a fingers up against pessimism day. I was desperate to go climbing this weekend. The weather report on Friday made Saturday look li...
October 08, 2008
Ignoring the bank holiday forecast

Ignoring the bank holiday forecast

If the forecast was to be believed we would have been better staying at home doing DIY, however it had been a busy week and we just needed some out...
May 07, 2008
El Chorro

El Chorro

If you have never been or never even heard of El Chorro then this is definitely a venue worth checking out! It’s set in the south of Spain around 7...
April 29, 2009
BRYCS round 3

BRYCS round 3

A few months ago, the parent representative for the British climbing team, John Ellison, was diagnosed with prostate cancer. It was a shock to all ...
April 30, 2012

In the Middle - Climbing in Ireland

In the Middle - Climbing in Ireland

This short video is a compilation of footage shot over the last few years. It showcases many first ascents and repeats of the hardest routes in the...
February 28, 2013
Euro rock trip

Euro rock trip

My bags are packed to bursting, have I got everything? 2 days have passed since the weight of A levels was lifted mercifully from my shoulders. The...
June 29, 2011
Troll Wall - A (very) short story

Troll Wall - A (very) short story

My hope by finally writing this up is there is a little catharsis for me once it’s finished. Never have I been more disappointed in my life than b...
March 17, 2011

Electric Blue

At the end of a summer centered around competing in the European Youth Cups I had one weekend booked since January that I was really looking forwar...
September 24, 2012
Juniors at Font

Juniors at Font

A couple of weeks ago a few members of the junior climbing team made it out to Font. The team experienced sun, snow, rain and sub zero temperatures...
March 03, 2010

Deep s*** soloing and a windy whip

The last month or so has been a bit sensitive in our house. We mused at the beginning of the year that we were all going to get really strong or re...
December 11, 2012
Searching for ice on the Ben

Searching for ice on the Ben

So on Thursday evening me and the Captain (Alex Dalton) set off to beautiful rainy and warm Scotland for a smudging of ice climbing. Problem i...
February 09, 2011
Back to Trad

Back to Trad

When you grow up in the British climbing world you hear a lot about the traditional climbing. The desire to go out and climb great clean lines is b...
May 22, 2012

Warming up for ROCfest

There is just over a week to go before Rock Over Climbing in Manchester put on their annual ROCfest bouldering event. I have not been before, but I...
January 23, 2013
Leading Ladder Final 2012

Leading Ladder Final 2012

The leading ladder final, held in Redding yesterday had a small but strong turn out of team Crush members. Flo and Billy were both in category C un...
April 15, 2012
Fitness Test at South Cerney

Fitness Test at South Cerney

Time to test the fitness – my first Olympic Distance race of the season (1500m swim, 40km bike, 10km run) was the South Cerney Classic organised by...
June 29, 2008

Sport climbing in Ceuse

Sport climbing in Ceuse

A camp above the white cliffs, mayhem through Paris, a night in the hammock and we are finally settled in with the Rig 7 tarpaulin set up with the ...
July 08, 2011

Wake up, Rack up, Man up

As if I needed reminding, that's what I read on Justin's van, written on the plywood panel, whilst sipping my cup of tea. Wake up. Rack up. Man up....
July 01, 2014
Alps 4000ers - weeks 1 and 2

Alps 4000ers - weeks 1 and 2

Introducing Anna Wells. We love the Alps and for Anna Wells it will be true Alpine Dreamin' at its best as she heads out this summer on a quest t...
June 17, 2013

Altai Expedition

"Do you want to come climbing in Russia? There's this range called the Altai, it's near the border in the South somewhere. I think it’s a bit like ...
January 08, 2013

The Rise of Erin

The poem When Erin First Rose is a beautiful homage to Ireland by the famed poet William Drennan. In Drennan's words, Ireland is the Emerald of Eur...
July 28, 2017

Uskedalen icefall climbing calling

Most people don’t know that I’m a secret Scandinavian*. I’ve never been particularly inspired by the arid scrub of hot countries, drawn instead to ...
October 26, 2016
The big soaking

The big soaking

Returning home last Sunday, I was determined to go back to Antsey's Cove really soon. Feeling that I'm going well, I knew if Cider Soak was going t...
May 08, 2013

Cragweek

It's the question that all of us dread: 'so have you been getting out much?' In fact, not all climbers dread this question, just the ones who feel ...
July 13, 2017

Gipsy Anniversary

If you have to choose between climbing and writing, even if you like to share newly opened routes with the world… you always go climbing! …and s...
July 12, 2018

Bouldering in Brione

One of the most peaceful and beautiful places I have ever visited. Ticino, a region of Switzerland, is an area of outstanding natural beauty with b...
May 30, 2019

Third Time Lucky: Soloing the Aiguille de Moine

Soloing Aiguille de Moine Earlier this year I decided to solo a peak called “Aiguille de Moine” which sits at 3412m within the Mont Blanc Massif.It...
December 18, 2018

The Red Gold

Red River Gorge is know for its richness in oil, single pumps dotted around sucking out the black gold. But there's other gold to be found in this ...
April 27, 2017

Serra da Estrela - Our Backyard

Star Mountain “Serra da Estrela”literally translatesto “Star Mountain”, and is the highest mountain of continental Portugal. This beautifulgranite ...
February 27, 2019

Mountaineering in Bolivia

The first time I set eyes on the snowy spine of the Andes was on a flight to Chile way back in 2003 and have wanted climb in them ever since. Fast-...
March 11, 2019

Jollies in the Dollies

The plan was simple, get the ice climbing mileage in time for smashing out the late season Ben Nevis ice routes. We couldn’t decide on where to go,...
February 24, 2017

Himalayan Adventures: Shan-Ri - Part 1

Himalayas 2018 In the last 10 years our Himalayan adventures have been based on mountains off the beaten path, normally virgin peaks or unexplor...
December 06, 2018

10 Things To Replace A Chamonix Climbing Season: Anna Wells In Lockdown

Like so many other people around the world, the Covid-19 outbreak has had a huge impact on our lives. After a brilliant winter season in Chamoni...
April 09, 2020

Against The Ebbing Tide

As climbers dwelling on British sea cliffs, we are all well acquainted with the ebbs and flows of the tides. The comings and going of bodies of wat...
August 21, 2018

The Ascent of Nanda Devi

Posted for Vertebrate Publishing - to mark the re-release of H.W. Tilman titles H. W. ‘Bill’ Tilman was one of the greatest adventurers of his time...
December 07, 2016

Ice climbing, head spanners, chamois and Cogne

Ice Fest 2019 Every year a friend of mine, Dave Pegler, organises Ice Fest - a non-guided trip that includes accommodation, excellent food, wine an...
February 25, 2019

The Shining Mountain by Peter Boardman

What you are about to read is an exclusive extract from the book 'The Shining Mountain' by Peter Boardman. To see more books we love and books that...
February 09, 2021

The Climb

As I pulled onto my first rock climb in three months, I felt a surge of energy and happiness as my body rediscovered the joy and simplicity of movi...
October 08, 2020

The 'Unrepeatable' | Ice Climbing in the Serra da Estrela

Story written by our Alpkiteers Daniela Teixeira and Paulo Roxo Unlike last year, this year we do have winter in Serra da Estrela. The East Face of...
January 26, 2021

Winter climbing in Portugal - Part 1

250m of ice climbing in Portugal… “Wait a minute! Did I read Portugal?!” It’s March, I’m sitting here still hopeful winter will return. Hope is nor...
May 18, 2021

The Mountain Path by Paul Pritchard

You're reading an extract from 'The Mountain Path' by Paul Pritchard. Available to pre-order here. "Eggshell ice. That’s what climbers call the br...
September 20, 2021

5 days, 5 climbs by Daniela and Paulo Teixeira

In this Covid-no expedition year, we were eager to have some days not thinking about anything else than… to climb. It is restriction time here i...
November 20, 2020

Climbing in Santa Luzia Walls

Thanks to our wonderful friends and Alpkiteers, Daniela and Paulo, who sent us this story of climbing in Santa Luzia Walls. It was the year…well, I...
November 24, 2022

Summer of Trad

Ramon, long-standing Alpkiteer and friend of Alpkit, got in touch to tell us about his summer of trad climbing, looking back on our revisiting of t...
November 04, 2022

Rope Soloing The Old Man of Stoer

My favourite thing about climbing has always been the friendships, bonds and memories that form through extraordinary shared experiences. Climbing ...
October 12, 2023

The Grit List - An ode to friction

The changing of the season has me rubbing my hands together in anticipation for the return of perfect gritstone conditions (it’s not just to keep m...
October 22, 2024

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