Sport climbing in Ceuse

By Luke Tilley

Settled in Ceuse, where the cliffs whisper tales of climbers past and present.

A camp above the white cliffs, mayhem through Paris, a night in the hammock and we are finally settled in with the Rig 7 tarpaulin set up with the snazziest tent pegs on the site. The many buttresses of the Ceuse massif keeping an ever watchful eye from the top of the mountain.

I don’t know why I came, really terrible weather, crap crag and rubbish scenery, probably heading back as soon as possible for the British limestone, Rubicon anyone?. Just kidding, I don’t think I have ever been in a better place!

We have knuckled down to the routing, first day we had a successful morning at the Cascade area I found the style of climbing came quickly to me and dispatched 7c+ flash and a classic 7c onsight. Day two saw a personal best after a morning of further 7c onsighting with a flash of a classic 8a! It is great to be feeling so good at this early stage.

The quantity of awe-inspiring lines is incredible if not slightly overwhelming! I am planning to build up a good base of near my limit onsighting for a good week or two before getting lured onto the vast number of super hard super classic lines that may take more time and energy, although climbing with the Hammer lads could easily lead me astray!

The Sting to the tail of course is the walk in but I have found the Gourdon 20stocked with a Platypus full of water, the perfect companion for the hour walk and 500m climb. We will be as fit as anything by the end of the trip. I will keep you updated on my progress!

Take it easy

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